The SLD-designed restaurant references traditional motifs without heavy-handed nostalgia.
Bangkok's Mandarin Oriental has opened The China House by Chef Fei, a 1,100-square-metre restaurant by Steve Leung Design Group designed to modernise Chaoshan cultural references for contemporary diners.
The two-floor venue centres on a double-height atrium featuring red fabric panels that reference traditional abacus beads and custom pendant lights inspired by Phoenix Crown ceremonial headpieces, created by Thai artist Pin Metal Art.
The design team avoided literal cultural reproduction, instead using a burgundy and teal colour scheme that subtly evokes Chaoshan textiles and ceramics. Spider green flooring contrasts with carvalho wood wall treatments, while brass and copper metalwork provides textural variation.
"We want to create a contemporary nostalgia venue," said Mai Chongchaiyo, chief creative officer of Steve Leung Hospitality. "It's not about recreating the past, but rather curating its essence and re-presenting it through a modern lens."
The ground floor is organized around the central atrium, with a bar and lounge area flowing into a secluded tea bar. Here, the ceiling treatment intensifies the burgundy-and-teal scheme through layered panels that create intimate scale beneath the larger volume. Local luxury stone and bespoke timber furnishings anchor the tea service area, honoring Chaoshan tea-pairing traditions.

A floating staircase connects to four private dining rooms on the upper level, including a VVIP space for large gatherings. Each room features adaptable configurations through moveable panels and modular seating arrangements.
Material collaboration with Thai suppliers includes Jim Thompson wallpapers, Bellitas lighting fixtures, Task furniture, and Siam Woodland timber cladding. Cotto Italia and L Thai tiles create textural variety across floor and wall surfaces.

The project's "Stealthy Savor" concept manifests through layered spatial experiences that reveal cultural references gradually rather than immediately. Copper and brass details emerge from burgundy backgrounds, while traditional motifs appear in contemporary materials and scales.

"The goal is to make current customers feel a warm, familiar recognition while making the newcomers see that heritage as compelling, sophisticated, and relevant," concludes Chongchaiyo. "Every design element is paired with something timeless; every nostalgic reference is presented with a twist."